Once you set the film and its advancing correctly, make sure to constantly double check the film is still resting on the sensing unit gear "right under the viewfinder". As soon as everything is good you just turn the pressure plate back, slip the cover on ensuring its closed appropriately and your all set to shoot!
Use your sharp energy knife together with your straight edge placed next to the edge of the window to cut the film. Leave a 1/16" border in between the edge of the film restore film and the window.
Things developed along till the late 1800's, when cellulose film was brought into production by Mr. Eastman. He found out how to put paper on the back of the movie and roll that on spindles to keep it from being exposed. Then, kaboom! Roll film was invented.
2 things to think about: What creates word of mouth? What makes something viral? The responses: Excellent PR - has to do with developing a backstory of interest; Great Trailers - about visually selling that story.
Static cling is extremely flexible during setup. If your window scene isn't lining up perfectly, or possibly has pesky air bubbles that won't comply, just peel the movie off the window and start over. There is no adhesive on fixed cling, and for that reason isn't degraded by several applications.
This is a task that, depending on the size of the print, can be done by a single person. If the print is large, then it may be worth asking a good friend to provide a hand.
If you ever wish to eliminate it, don't stress. The removal is even simpler than the installation. Just raise a corner with your finger nail, and peel the movie off diagonally across the window. That's it.